The Pain of Passage-Making

Many people envision sailing as a romantic and relaxing hobby. I still do, too, even knowing from experience that the romance and relaxation account for about 10% of the actual time on a sailboat. It’s easier — and more fun — to talk about the sunsets and stars, or even […]

Check out our new digs.

We have a new address here in French Polynesia.  Instead of telling people to find us “on the light green ketch called Llyr,” we now give directions to the “dark blue sloop named Kayanos.” Last night we schlepped our shit over to Ben and Sarah’s 42-foot sailboat.  Somehow our belongings […]

Magic Mood Mixture (nope, no illegal substances included)

I know many of you who followed our voyage across the Pacific are secretly asking yourselves this very important question:how the hell did Bri and Rob keep from losing their minds during while bobbing around the ocean blue for a whole month? First off, don’t kid yourselves: we definitely lost […]

Daily Routine at Sea

The last 33 days at sea seem lost in space. May evaporated like the spindrift from the waves we rode to the Marquesas. Where did those days go? What the hell did we do that whole time? Well, a lot of the same thing. Mark Twain summed up passage life […]

Land Ho! Kaloha, Nuku Hiva.

WE MADE IT! 33 days at sea. 52 days total on the boat. 4,178 miles of ocean. 2 full moons. 3.5 time zones. 1 proxy high school graduation ceremony. 25 pounds of rice. 3 minor sail repairs. 4 avian hitchhikers. 8 new constellations. 18 degree shift in water temperature. Dozens […]

Provisioning Your Boat: How To Feed 7 for 40 days

Feeding 7 people for 40 days requires roughly 1.5 feet of grocery receipts per person.  It also pencils out to about $6 per person per day.  Pretty cheap, right?  Especially if you totally ignore the thousands of dollars spent on other parts of sailing a boat across the largest ocean […]

We’re Halfway There on This Gyrating Merry-Go-Round

A gyrating merry-go-round, we teeter-totter across the sea. 60,000 pounds of steel turned tiny rubber duckie at the whim of wandering waves. The American flag whips in tatters, the stripes stripped into ragged ribbons. Persevering. Presiding. Present. Like the rest of us. Each day a repeat of the next or […]

Communications on a Boat

A friend asked us months ago about the communications setup on sailboats.  I promised a blog entry, and the timing seems ripe now that we’re floating in the middle of the big blue Pacific puddle. First off, every boat has a slightly different setup to communicate with the outside world.  […]

On Noticing Mermaids

Some people never take notice of the Earth; some have to have it pointed out to them. But most, I think, are simply uncurious. You take notice. The whole point in going on this adventure is to take notice. You will experience so many amazing things. But you don’t have […]

The Dividing Line at the Equator

Crossing the equator is a big deal, especially in the nautical world. The event inspires all sorts of ancient rituals, traditions based in superstition, and bizarre offerings to King Neptune. In other words, it’s like all other events surrounding sailing. Llyr crossed reached 0 degrees latitude on May 1st around […]

My New Surreal World – On Night Watch

Standing watch alone tonight, my new world looks surreal. The moon isn’t up yet, and dark cloudy skies blanket the dark roily ocean. All I can see is the splash of white foam over the bowsprit, lit greenish-pink by our navigation lights as we pitch and roll up, over, down, […]

Panama Canal (Take Two): Watch Us In Action Tomorrow!

After 9 days on this dock in Shelter Bay Marina, Llyr is finally ready to head to the Pacific.  Our slated Panama Canal crossing is set for tomorrow, April 20th, at 3:45pm.  Rob and I are the resident experts aboard after our crossing earlier this week, and are primed to avoid […]

The Monkey’s Fist (in your face)

We did it! Our first Panama Canal transit was a success. And by success, I mean none of the scary things happened that most yacht owners worry about. Those scary things include: Hitting one of the concrete walls in the 106-foot wide locks and damaging your sailboat as billions of […]

Panama Canal (Take One): “You Want US to be line handlers?”

Rob and I are going to serve as line handlers on a 38-foot monohull sailboat heading through the Panama Canal tomorrow. Those of you familiar with our intended itinerary are probably confused, since you know we’re crewing on Llyr through the Canal en route to the South Pacific. Here’s the […]

13 Interviews – A Pennsylvania Perspective on Sailing Away

Today is the first day of our adventure. As we enter a new country, it seems fitting to reflect a bit on where we’re going, as well as reflect on what others think about our upcoming sailing voyage. When we went back to visit Philadelphia in February, Bri and I […]

Packing Your Home into a Small Space

  Our first day of (our first) retirement is full of dust-bunnies, boxes, and lots of trash bags.  The full chaos of moving is upon us.  Luckily, we have a whole week to move our life and our house into a 12×12-foot storage space before we fly away to Baja […]

How Will I Roam At Sea?

We just spent 2 days in a cabin in the middle of the mountains where Montana meets Idaho with our good friends, Pedro and Janaina.  Jana’s mama from Brazil came, too (and rocked her first-ever snowshoe experience!), along with their 9-month-old, Clarice. We skied in the sun, ate good food, […]

What Should We Read?

Friends, family, loved ones and internet browsers: can you help us stock our library for the next year or so?  I’m a voracious reader, and about to have some serious time to consume lots of written words while floating the seas.  Rob, too. Unfortunately, I feel lost and adrift while […]

Travel Preparations: What to Bring With You

Are you ready for Part 2 of the Travel Prep Mini-Series?  We sure are!  This entry is much more fun, since it means we’re getting closer to a final packing list and farther from those nagging logistical details of leaving our life behind.  (In case you missed Part 1, click here […]

“Where, exactly, are you going?”

We leave one month from tomorrow.  Whoa.  As the departure date approaches, the main question we hear (aside from “are you getting excited?!”) is “where, exactly, are you guys going?”  Here’s the answer: On March 26th, we fly from Missoula, Montana to Cabo San Lucas in Baja California.  We’re hoping […]

Exercise on a Boat

I’m sitting in the grungy hallway of a junior high school in the suburbs of Philadelphia. The buzzing fluorescent lights highlight the 1970s avocado-green tiles, and illuminate Rob and his brother, Brent, playing volleyball in the gym a few yards ahead of me. We’re visiting Rob’s family for a week […]

Limitless Exploration

A fellow Montanan — and friend of our friends — Tyler Bradt is about to set sail across the Pacific on a similar voyage to our own.  Only difference is that he has a boat already, while we’re crewing on other people’s boats.  Oh, and also the fact that he […]

Travel Preparations: What You Should Leave Behind

Last week, I had coffee with my friend, Kim.  She and her family are planning to take a year off to sail soon (go, Kim!), and I talked her ear off about how to prepare.  Kim madly scribbled down notes as I rattled off websites, resources and advice about the […]

Crew on a Sailboat or Buy Our Own?

Lately, we’ve been asked often by our friends and family: “Why are you going to crew on someone else’s sailboat instead of just buying your own?” (Check out our Panama Canal post to read more about who we’re crewing with across the Pacific Ocean.) Great question.  Here are several answers. […]

Panama Canal, here we come!

  We did it!  We found a boat to hop on for the long sail across the Pacific Ocean.  Rob and I officially signed on as crew for Llyr, a 53-foot steel ketch sailboat making the crossing from Panama to the Marquesa Islands this April. Turns out that the McCutchen […]