We waited with bated breath aboard a rocking boat in the grey Pacific, both kids standing on the bow. And were rewarded with a mighty blow as the world’s second longest animal surfaced. When the fin whale porpoised through the clear water to dive down for more breakfast, we cheered. Then we quickly scrambled to the other side to watch a pod of dusky dolphins frolicking nearby.

In mid-March we spent a week in the tiny town of Caleta Chañaral de Aceituno so I could interview biologists studying blue and fin whales. We were also ready for some beach time after 2.5 months landlocked in South America. I found a super cute Airbnb called “La Sirinita” (the little mermaid) that was a half-dome of straw and cement. The walls were embedded with wine bottles, shells and sea stones. For real.

After flying from Calama to La Serena, we drove two hours north through the desert to the caleta (which means “cove” in Spanish). Chañaral has three tiny tiendas, one excellent ice cream shop (open a total of 6 hours per week), and a small natural harbor chock-full of colorful boats. We hit the tail-end of tourist season, so it was mellow with a capital M.

We strolled the rocky shore, which — at the southern end of the mind-bogglingly HUMONGOUS Atacama Desert — was mostly barren of plant life. We took a few jogs, built a few sand castles, and ate a lot of empanadas. The kids danced in the waves.

We also enjoyed being out of WiFi and cell range, with nary a screen in sight. Well, to be fair, the kids took some convincing, but after a few rounds of “I’m bored!” turned to building elaborate outdoor forts, initiating many tickle-monster games, and creating their own intricate “habitat” to defend.

And we definitely enjoyed the astonishingly diverse marine life. Chañaral sits just a couple miles from the biodiverse Humboldt Archipelago, and is known as the best spot in Chile to go scuba diving or whale watching…two of our favorite hobbies!

We watched Humboldt penguins dive in kelp forests, and foxes dart between tidepools teeming with sculpin. We took two different whale-watching tours to hang out with those mega-big fin whales, and also saw 6,000 baby sea lions on Isla Chañaral. So cool!

Rob and I took turns scuba diving in the clear turquoise water. It was magical. Also, cold. Both of us doubled up on wet suits and were still shivering for an hour post-dive. When I braved the freezing water near our house with a mask (and without a wetsuit), I found big rockfish and sea stars.

In between all the reading and ocean play, we also met most of the village’s inhabitants, along with local and international researchers and photographers who are studying the region’s natural wealth.

And guess what?? I was lucky enough to to out twice with scientists to tag fin whales! (Dream job, check.) I can’t wait to write about what the researchers are learning, and how they hope to save whales from habitat-damaging mines and mega-ports that are slated to be built in the region. 

Meanwhile, the image of the kids leaning over a pod of dusky dolphins will keep my water-loving soul fed until our family’s next ocean adventure.

p.s. Stay tuned for the last post from our South American adventures coming next week: Patagonia!