The largest atoll in French Polynesia, Rangiroa is a laid-back island paradise full of underwater wonders
Our family spent three weeks exploring Rangiroa this winter, an island 200 miles northeast of Tahiti. We snorkeled with sharks, dove with dolphins, and combed deserted shorelines for shells and sea glass. It was a particularly awesome destination.
I wrote about one part of our Rangiroa adventure for my new Forbes column, where I’m reporting on the intersection of travel and science. What better spot to marry the two topics than this atoll’s oasis of marine biodiversity?
Check out the full story here, or read on for a snippet from the article. Meanwhile, stay turned for more stories from our two months in the stunning isles of French Polynesia, along with more of my husband’s fun photography.
Our guide, Cadousteau Nohoarii, nosed his boat into the shallows outside the blue lagoon. “Welcome to my office,” he proclaimed, gesturing at the gorgeous scene. A blacktip reef shark darted away as he tied off to a mooring. “This is a nursery for baby sharks.”
Nohoarii is the owner of Kaimana Excursions, a Rangiroa-based tour company founded by his grandparents. Much to the delight of our children, ages 6 and 10, Nohoarii’s two young sons served as his crew since they were on school holiday. The four kids waded to shore together, towing a surfboard and carrying snorkeling gear. My husband and I followed more slowly, marveling at the fairy terns circling overhead.
Nohoarii showed us around the tiny island: barbecue and outdoor kitchen, a covered area with long picnic tables and beach chairs under coconut trees. After cutting fresh mango and grapefruit to snack on, he nodded at the inviting water. “Go swim while we make lunch.”
My daughter and I walked into the clear water, startling a stingray. “Mom, quick! Let’s put our masks on to watch it.”
While we hovered alongside the ray, my husband and son waded out in search of baby sharks. It might sound crazy to willingly swim beside animals that might bite or sting you. But we’d been in Rangiroa long enough to know that sharks and rays are plentiful, beautiful, and way more scared of us than we are of them.
French Polynesia has one of the healthiest populations of sharks and rays on earth. Rangiroa is one of the best places to swim or dive with these creatures. My husband was lucky enough to see hammerheads and a tiger shark while scuba diving, and I had drift-snorkeled over dozens of grey reef sharks.
Rangiroa’s abundant sharks are thanks in part to its thriving coral reefs and clean water. It also helps that the Polynesians leave sharks in peace rather than hunting or harvesting them, which is all too common in many other parts of the world.